Francesco Ratti

Born in 1980, born and raised in Brianza, from a very young age I have always cultivated a strong passion for the mountain and its world. In Lecco, I took my first steps on the rock and my passion for climbing was certainly born there. Soon I also discovered mountaineering and began to experience the mountain at 360 ° in all its activities. In 2015 I decided to turn my passion into a profession and to become an alpine guide. After moving to the Matterhorn valley I became a member of the historic Matterhorn Guide Society to which I am still a part. Today I divide my life between my family, the profession of mountain guide and my plans as a climber.

Here is a short list of what I consider my most important climbs and expeditions:

ALPS:

• Mont Blanc massif: Grandes Jorasses North Face, Colton MacIntye and Cassin routes on the Walker spur (both climbs in one day) / Central Freney Pylon: classic Bonington route climbed twice, the second time with a customer / Petit Dru: Couloir Nord Direct / Mont Blanc du Tacul: Supercouloir with direct attack / Mont Blanc du Tacul: Scotch in the Rocks / Les Droites North Face, routes: Ginat and Colton-Brooks / Peuterey ascent Integral Ridge
• Eiger: North Face, via Heickmair
• Matterhorn: North Face, via Schmidt / Cresta Furggen Ridge in winter (2 times) / Pilastro dei Fiori, via “Padre Pio Pray For All” climb both in summer and in winter (third winter repeat) / New route on the south wall called “Diretta Allo Scudo” (ED, 7a max), opened with François Cazzanelli and Emrik Favre and subsequently climbed in full ibera.
• Dolomites: Marmolada, Way through the fish / Rocchetta alta di Bosconero via Forrest Gump (first repeat) / Cima Grande di Lavaredo, via Hasse-Brandler

EXTRA-EUROPEAN SHIPMENTS:

• Patagonia: Aguja Poincenot, via Carrington-Rouse / Cerro Piergiorgio, via Greenpeace (up to the top chimneys)
  Expedition to Mount Edgar (6.618mt), Sichuan-China (2017): Expedition to Sichuan, a Chinese region close to Tibet that boasts several masses that are still well known or unexplored. Here we climbed Mount Edgar (6.618mt) but we also opened 5 new routes on as many virgin mountains with a height between 5.000 and 6.000 meters (more information on: https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/ first-class-italian-mountaineering-in-china-the-mount-edgar-report.html)
• Alaska (2019): In Alaska together with François Cazzanelli I climbed the Denali (6,190 m) twice in a seventh time, the first time along the West Rib and the second time along the Cassin road in 19 hours from the terminal to the top also making the third Italian repeat of the route.
• Manaslu / Pangboche Expedition: in the autumn of 2019 I went to Nepal where I climbed the Manaslu (8.1mt) which was my first eight thousand climbed without the aid of supplemental oxygen. During this expedition we also made an attempt to open a new alpine-style route on the Southwest ridge of Pangboche (6.620mt)
• Climbing in the world: some of the magnificent places where I was lucky enough to climb: Yosemite (USA), Taghia (Morocco), Wadi Rum (Jordan)